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BEst start up cements for Newbies

#1 User is offline   drvedberani 

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Posted 23 January 2010 - 12:24 AM

Hi Guys ,
Can you help me with easy start up cementation system for cerec
i have been doing my research before the system arives next month and am tossing between Gcem/relyx unicem and usign systemp desenitiser underneath ( which is actually not recommended by 3m OR GC

my other option is to use Multilink resin cement with primder A+B or excite underneath

very confused..............
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#2 User is offline   cosmeticdental 

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Posted 23 January 2010 - 04:21 PM

hi,
actually after ca. 600 restaurations in the last three years with my cerec machine, my experience is: you dont need desensitiser underneath.
Multilink with A+B is also a good product like relyX. I dont have any experience with GCem.

What you have to respect is the occlusal thickness about 1,5mm , so you will get no chipping.
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#3 User is offline   DRPPERD 

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Post icon  Posted 23 January 2010 - 07:53 PM

:D

Here is a copy of a word document that is nearly 2 years old!

It is still good now!

There may be more sophisticated cementation systems out there (APEX Triad)

This one is more straightfoward and easy for assistants to learn the protocol, and the bond strengths are top caliber.

I use the Vita etch on the Cerec then the MULTILINK silane as per instructions while the waiting time for the treatments to the restoration, I will apply etch to the enamel of the prep and wash it away.

As stated earlier, I like to use Parkell’s Blue-Sep on the proximals of the restoration and the adjacent teeth.

Steps as follows:
1. Etch Cerec, mix A&B. ETCHED AREA SHOULD BE FROSTY!
2. Silanate Cerec
3. Etch, wash, dry the enamel (during 1 or 2)
4. Dry off Cerec from silanation at the end of 2
5. Carefully paint restoration with Blue-Sep where desired.
6. Insure isolation of prep -- wash, dry area and paint Blue-Sep on proximal teeth.
7. Keep Blue-Sep off the prep.
8. Air dry (gently)
9. Scrub the pre-mixed A&B onto prep surface, but don’t get it on the Blue-Sep.
10. Inject layer of MULTILINK onto restoration surface
11. Inject MULTILINK onto prep surface (fill voids – no air bubbles)
12. Seat rest (in 10 sec or less)
13. Keep rest seated and flash cure
14. Remove B & L flash
15. Double floss proximals and replace floss
16. Finish cure and finish clean up
17. Final polish

Note on deep areas of prep, don’t let A & B puddle! This will cause the very rapid setting of the MULTILINK and can cause incomplete seating! This is particularly true if you have a deepish “Endo” prep (5-6 mm)

To paint the blue Sep, I use little sausage shaped brushes like the ones that come in the MULTILINK kit, only smaller (Micro Brush MPX). They can be bent at an angle and will coat a distal or mesial with 1 swipe. 1 big drop of the Blue-Sep will coat 1 crown and two proximal teeth!

Step 5 and 6 should take only 30 seconds the blue Sep will skin over if it sits out too long (1 min).

Hint:
I like to Stain and Glaze my Cerecs, and I will put a little dot of stain on the distal of the restoration to aid in seating orientation!

With MULTILINK, you don’t have time futz around trying to fit it a couple of different ways!!!!

B)

here is a .PDF

Attached File  Multilink.pdf (6.25K)
Number of downloads: 21

This post has been edited by DRPPERD: 23 January 2010 - 08:07 PM

The TRAC Ball ALWAYS Lands in the Guacamole!
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#4 User is offline   drvedberani 

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Post icon  Posted 24 January 2010 - 05:18 AM

Great starts ,,thank you very much
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#5 User is offline   Alessandro Devigus 

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Posted 24 January 2010 - 11:15 AM

Hello

My materials for inlays, onlays and veneers - your filling composite (heat it up) with Syntac classic
For crowns I use Multilink automix

I would not recommend using RelyX Unicem for inlays and onlays

Alessandro
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#6 User is offline   cosmeticdental 

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Posted 24 January 2010 - 04:46 PM

yes, the preparation of cerec with ceramic etch and silane is very important!

I use variolink ultra for inlays and variolink veneer for veneers, but you can also use composite, if it is not hard. I have broken one inlay while cementating with composite, but this is a user mistake ;-)
And zhe inlay didnt have enough thickness ;-(

I use also sa clearfill SA cement, the new ceramic cement for inlays. So you dont need here syntac.I didnt watch sensibility after.
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#7 User is offline   cosmeticdental 

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Posted 24 January 2010 - 04:47 PM

View Postcosmeticdental, on 2010-01-24 (17:46), said:

yes, the preparation of cerec with ceramic etch and silane is very important!

I use variolink ultra for inlays and variolink veneer for veneers, but you can also use composite, if it is not hard. I have broken one inlay while cementating with composite, but this is a user mistake ;-)
And zhe inlay didnt have enough thickness ;-(

I use also sa clearfill SA cement, the new ceramic cement for inlays. So you dont need here syntac.I didnt watch sensibility after.

This post has been edited by cosmeticdental: 24 January 2010 - 04:51 PM

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#8 User is offline   drvedberani 

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Posted 24 January 2010 - 11:37 PM

Hi

Any reason why we should use relyx unicem for inlays /onlays,,,self adhesive and cuts out the tooth preparation with primer A+B

just wondering?
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#9 User is offline   msapong 

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Posted 25 January 2010 - 06:46 PM

Interesting thread. I have had some success using NX3 by Kerr. It is a fairly straightforward system, very similar to the Multilink system. How does the heated composite technique work?
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#10 User is offline   drvedberani 

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Posted 26 January 2010 - 02:20 AM

View PostDRPPERD, on 2010-01-24 (05:53), said:

:D

Here is a copy of a word document that is nearly 2 years old!

It is still good now!

There may be more sophisticated cementation systems out there (APEX Triad)

This one is more straightfoward and easy for assistants to learn the protocol, and the bond strengths are top caliber.

I use the Vita etch on the Cerec then the MULTILINK silane as per instructions while the waiting time for the treatments to the restoration, I will apply etch to the enamel of the prep and wash it away.

As stated earlier, I like to use Parkell’s Blue-Sep on the proximals of the restoration and the adjacent teeth.

Steps as follows:
1. Etch Cerec, mix A&B. ETCHED AREA SHOULD BE FROSTY!
2. Silanate Cerec
3. Etch, wash, dry the enamel (during 1 or 2)
4. Dry off Cerec from silanation at the end of 2
5. Carefully paint restoration with Blue-Sep where desired.
6. Insure isolation of prep -- wash, dry area and paint Blue-Sep on proximal teeth.
7. Keep Blue-Sep off the prep.
8. Air dry (gently)
9. Scrub the pre-mixed A&B onto prep surface, but don’t get it on the Blue-Sep.
10. Inject layer of MULTILINK onto restoration surface
11. Inject MULTILINK onto prep surface (fill voids – no air bubbles)
12. Seat rest (in 10 sec or less)
13. Keep rest seated and flash cure
14. Remove B & L flash
15. Double floss proximals and replace floss
16. Finish cure and finish clean up
17. Final polish

Note on deep areas of prep, don’t let A & B puddle! This will cause the very rapid setting of the MULTILINK and can cause incomplete seating! This is particularly true if you have a deepish “Endo” prep (5-6 mm)

To paint the blue Sep, I use little sausage shaped brushes like the ones that come in the MULTILINK kit, only smaller (Micro Brush MPX). They can be bent at an angle and will coat a distal or mesial with 1 swipe. 1 big drop of the Blue-Sep will coat 1 crown and two proximal teeth!

Step 5 and 6 should take only 30 seconds the blue Sep will skin over if it sits out too long (1 min).

Hint:
I like to Stain and Glaze my Cerecs, and I will put a little dot of stain on the distal of the restoration to aid in seating orientation!

With MULTILINK, you don’t have time futz around trying to fit it a couple of different ways!!!!

B)

here is a .PDF

Attachment Multilink.pdf



Thanks again,
just a quick one, this blue sep is like aseperating agent for proximal teeth and non bonding prep areas? what company makes it and is it available in Australia,, are there any alternatives?
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#11 User is offline   DRPPERD 

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Post icon  Posted 26 January 2010 - 01:27 PM

Blu Sep is a PARKELL product.

They are a mail order company, so I don't think there would be a problem.

It is a water soluble coating that can be painted onto a restoration that prevents cements from sticking.

Think of it as an ‘anti-bonding agent’.

It dries to an ultra-thin film that will not interfere with contacts.

It is a life saver by preventing contact areas from being fused by resin type cements.

I buy two bottles at a time and re order when I open the last bottle!

Attached File  Bluesep.jpg (3.92K)
Number of downloads: 3

http://www.parkell.c...re/commerce.cgi



OOPS!

here is a picture of the Microbrush MPX's


Attached File  microbrush1sm.jpg (24.24K)
Number of downloads: 8

This post has been edited by DRPPERD: 26 January 2010 - 01:34 PM

The TRAC Ball ALWAYS Lands in the Guacamole!
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